Slug On The Menu At Martin's BBQ
By the time you read this, you'll be able to get an honest-to-God slugburger in Middle Tennessee, courtesy of Martin's Bar-B-Que Joint in Nolensville. Owner/pitmaster Patrick Martin is making some long-planned changes to his menu this week, and among them is the arrival of this mysterious Mississippi delicacy.
I'd heard the name before, but for some reason (nausea?) I'd never inquired further. Turns out no slugs are harmed in the making of this burger. As Martin explained it to me, it's a patty of deep-fried dough with pork in it—a holdover from the Depression days when cornmeal or other extenders were added to make a little meat go a long way. (The "slug," in one explanation, comes from the nickels that local diners used to charge for the sandwiches back in the day.)
Martin is also adding another Deep South specialty: the Mississippi hot tamale, a remnant from the early days when Mexican immigrants passed through the South working the cotton harvests. (The full story can be found at the amazing Mississippi Delta Hot Tamale Trail site, along with recipes, eating places and even a film.) The typical version uses cornmeal instead of the traditional Mexican masa flour. No word whether Martin is serving his tamales "wet" (with Tabasco and crackers) the way the Tamale Trail site says it's done in the Delta.
Martin says there'll be more changes coming, some of which he details on his blog—which, by the way, should be required reading for anybody who wants to run a restaurant. (You will never read a more candid account of the trials and tribulations of opening an eatery, from soda-distributing jerks to light-fingered customers.) Among the tantalizing hints: baby back ribs; revolving daily specials such as shrimp po' boys and mutton; and more of Martin's etouffée (which wasn't available the last time we went).
The photo above is of the main attraction at the Slugburger Cafe in Corinth, Miss. Martin's is located at 7215 Nolensville Road, 776-1856.
Comments
Yes. I am excited to finally try a slugburger.
But I hope that all of this "diversification" does not result in any slippage of their bread and butter, which is of course the barbecue. As a general rule, I am wary of barbecue restaurants who stray too far from the heading.
Posted 09/03/2008 at 09:45:44 AMI hear their maggot po'boy is to die for.
Posted 09/03/2008 at 12:35:26 PMYes. I'm glad to finally be able to try a slugburger.
But I hope that all of this "diversification" does not result in any slippage of their bread and butter, which is barbecue. I am usually wary of barbecue restaurants straying too far from the heading.
Posted 09/03/2008 at 12:58:03 PMI hear you. But after talking to Patrick Martin the other day and hearing how committed he is to first-rate BBQ—which, as you know, is not a job for cowards or dilettantes—I'm not worried.
Posted 09/03/2008 at 02:44:36 PMthat slug burger should be interesting. I can't wait to try the slug burger with a side of tamales.
BP I am with you on bbq joints adding "non-bbq" items. I think that is the main problem with Paradise Ridge. However, Pat is doing it the right way. He has build his bbq business from scratch and now that he has some extra bandwidth he is experimenting with some new menu items. I don't think that he will ever go the frozen/reheated bbq route.
Posted 09/03/2008 at 04:17:13 PMI went to Martin's today for the first time. YUM!
Posted 09/03/2008 at 10:23:40 PMBeing from Mississippi, I'm glad to see a few of these items and I don't worry one bit about the quality of anything at Martin's suffering. He's too much of a perfectionist to do that, he'll pull the items first.
But growing up, tamales were standard fair in the strangest of places and I don't even thought I realized they were considered Mexican food until I was in my teens. But it's really not straying that far off Martin's menu because they fill them with that great smoked pork. I got two orders the other day and the first didn't make it to my house. If anyone saw me driving down the road they probably thought I hadn't eaten in days they way I was going at them.
They were out of slug burgers so I can't wait to have one again and see if theydo that as good as they do the tamales. A little extra crispy and I'll be happy!
Posted 09/10/2008 at 06:34:03 PM