First Impressions: Miro District Food & Drink
Miro District Food & Drink opened last week in the ground floor of the Adelicia highrise condominium. I won't review the restaurant—billed as a marriage of Mediterranean flavors and Tennessee tradition—for a few weeks, but I dropped by for lunch and an early look. My table shared a flatbread with grilled tomatoes and mozzarella ($9); tuna tartare with yellow peppers, capers and olives ($12); a grilled swordfish sandwich ($11); Capri salad ($10); and tiramisu ($7.25). After speaking with at least a half-dozen other people who jumped the gun at Watermark's week-old sister restaurant, let me offer these first impressions:
Don't miss the Capri salad. So far, this mélange of heirloom tomatoes from Barnes Produce and Smiley's Farm at the Farmers' Market has received rave reviews. Like a plate of green, orange, red and yellow cabochon gems—with playful names such as Dr. Welch's Yellow, Grandma's Pick, Green Stripe Zebra, Garden Peach, Pink Brandywine, Mortgage Lifter, German Strawberry and Cherokee Purple—the Capri is faintly dressed and topped with mozzarella and fried onions, making it an ample meal or a shared appetizer, not to mention a glorious summer sampler.
Go easy on the bread. It should go without saying that you don't want to spoil your appetite, but Miro will seduce you with its gorgeous, warm house-baked rosemary focaccia and crusty sourdough loaf. In our experience, the bread basket was just the tip of the doughberg. By the time we finished nibbling grilled margherita flatbread and grilled swordfish on thick focaccia, we could hardly look at the dessert menu, with its wild grape “focaccia” (made with brioche, peanut frangipane and Concord sorbetto).
Try the tiramisu. Made with slightly nubbly polenta poundcake in lieu of spongy ladyfingers, the espresso-laced cylinder of mascarpone and light cake tasted like a fortuitous collision of cornbread and tiramisu.
Ask to sit in the front room—whatever it takes. The crisp tiny-tiled foyer and main dining room, patrolled by a corps of servers in black and white, recall the ambiance of a European bistro. Meanwhile, the carpeted lower level and mezzanine lack the same festivity and charisma.
If you've been to Miro District, please chime in with your first impressions. Meanwhile, we'll return for a more thorough test drive of chef Dean Robb's menu in a few weeks. Stay tuned.
Comments
i held off talking about it but now i've been twice. both times before the 3 week grace period given by most critics. but i am just a diner, and so let me say that both times i went, i was accompanied by people who are in the restaurant business in this town. and we went wanting to love it - but it was disappointing on both trips. last night was really pretty bad - and it kills me to say it. to go through the 5 dishes and 2 desserts is just too long. the lunch was another 3 dishes and 1 dessert. i'll leave it to the reviewers who are paid experienced pros.
but a few highlights:
things coming cold from the kitchen that are supposed to be hot (happened twice)
over cooked pasta
papparadelle that stuck together in globs
seriously undersalted food
prosciutto showing up 3 times in my one meal and twice it was in the same form - little cold pieces of it strewn about...
a dish that said it had orange in it but there was no sign of it anywhere - not even a hint
so i do not understand. but i'm thinking it's just not for me to understand this...
the menu reads really nicely but the kitchen is obviously in a cluster fuck - still. maybe this one last week of getting it together will turn it around. i am hopeful.
Posted 08/15/2008 at 11:09:32 AMAnd you nailed the spelling of pappardelle! the most oft misspelled restaurant menu noodle.
Posted 08/15/2008 at 11:38:16 AMtommy - i speak fluent menu italian! but i think i added an extra a.
but please, just in case i sounded too harsh - let me say this about Miro. it is still very new and now it's all about getting that kitchen together and tightening up.
i look forward to going back.
Posted 08/15/2008 at 11:46:03 AMI missed that. shame on me. It's the proper pp's and ll's most scroo up.
Posted 08/15/2008 at 12:24:52 PMwent back again tonight
and i'm just not feeling it
i had the homemade ravioli's with crab, corn and pancetta - the ravioli's were excellent - but the crab mixture was really fair. the pancetta had no pop of flavor AT ALL, the crab meat was pretty bland and the balsamic kind of took over. overall, a disappointing dish. the capri salad was good, although i would have preferred a more flavorful mozzarella as in buffalo - or something creamier... and the lamb hummus flatbread was just ok. great concept but the crust was really hard and when it cooled it was tasteless. i'm definitely stealing the idea to make at home...
my third try. i'll be back but the bottom line is that they're just not striving for greatness - and again, this is just my opinion - and i think that so many people who have a public voice just can not necessarily say what they think. it's too small a town - and i get this. but i have nothing to lose so i get to say what i think.
i'd take city house over miro ANY DAY !!!
so anyway, i'm really not a frustrated food critic. my writing isn't there - but i am pretty well versed in eating and i deeply understand ingredients and the dishes that comprise them. basically, i just call it like i eat it. and so far i find miro's food just ok at very best. and it sort of breaks my heart...
nashville, i love you. but for the most part you totally accept mediocrity in your fine dining and well, that's not cool.
(sorry kay, i wish i could be excited about the place. i tried with all my heart...)
Posted 08/28/2008 at 11:45:27 PMIt's okay Claudia. I know you are trying. I have had a mixed bag of experiences there as well. When I was reviewing, I always gave restaurants like this at least two months, sometimes more. So, I'm just gonna keep my mind open and mouth shut---unless there is something edible or drinkable headed my way--for the time being. I am with you totally on City House, and I pay close attention to your opinionations. My closest friend is in for the weekend from NY and we are prepared to eat. It is credit to Nashville that there are more places I want to show her than number of meals in the time frame. Hey Bo, we're on our way for the crunkest fish!
Posted 08/29/2008 at 12:30:42 PMKudos to honest opinions, they're critical to fine tuning. And no doubt our restaurants have shifted for the better. More local and more choices. But plan on dropping a "Hunny" everytime. Food cost reigns supreme. The missed niche is the go-to mid-range eatery after a really bad day. Old reliable. The satisfying red sauce joint. A perfect blend of portion, atmosphere and price.
Posted 08/29/2008 at 02:04:47 PM