Conversation Bites: Chef John David Crow at 360

This week’s review of 360 features chef John David Crow’s menu peppered with unusual and eclectic items such as pea vine, boar and fresh Asian noodles. Crow trained at Seattle’s famous Ray's Boathouse and at the four-star Fountain Court in Bellevue, Wa., before graduating top of his class from the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco. In Seattle, he was part of the opening team at Brooklyn Seafood, Steak & Oyster House, pioneering in the genre of Pacific Rim cuisine. After serving as executive chef at The Space Needle, he opened Fire & Ice Lounge, which focused on seasonal fare from the Cascadia region.
Expect that résumé, along with the current culinary trends in the Pacific Northwest (think organic products, braising in butter and olive oil, and use of offal), to influence Crow’s work at 360 in the coming weeks. Crow predicts a menu flavored with Columbia River sturgeon, razor clams, octopus, sea urchin, sweetbreads and foie gras.
For a look at trends in the Pacific Northwest that might start to make their way toward Nashville, Crow recommends the following links:
If you have questions for Chef Crow, he’ll be stopping in throughout the day. Welcome to Conversation Bites, Chef Crow.




Comments
Chef Crow -- Recently it seems I can't swing a dead cat without hitting a seared scallop dish. Most of them are wonderful, with a light caramelizing on the surface. (Andrew Chadwick's and the Grill at Green Hills inside Whole Foods come to mind immediately.) But sometimes they are just awful--pale and milky-looking, with no browning from the pan-searing. Sometimes there's even a metallic taste in the seafood. What accounts for the difference--execution or quality of the raw product?
Posted 01/14/2008 at 07:51:54 AMHow is the quality of the seafood available in Middle Tennessee? After coming from the land of Pike Place Market, it would have to be a letdown—or am I underestimating the miracle of modern food transportation?
Posted 01/14/2008 at 10:00:06 AMSea Scallops are available in several forms, some better than other.
Posted 01/14/2008 at 10:22:17 AMWhen I cook with scallops I purchase "dry packed". Shy of off the dock scallops this is the best packaging. Milkiness and metalic flavors come from "wet packed" scallops which are canned and gassed. Frozen IQF (individually quick frozen) scallops are another option when fresh is not available. all food products should be allowed to thaw slowly in a refrigerated environment for maximum results.
It requires work. I have gone to my nearest hub city, Atlanta for what I believe is my freshest option. I also work with my purveyor and rather than tell him what I want, he tells me what just came in and this backwards approach has yielded me a fresher product. When I do want a product I ask in advance and am notified when it hits the dock.
Posted 01/14/2008 at 10:32:47 AMIs there a particular seafood item you see looming as a hot trend—tomorrow's sea bass? And when you arrived in Nashville, was there something that made you think, "Man, I can't believe they aren't cooking ______ around here?"
Posted 01/14/2008 at 10:47:54 AMWow, that list of sea critters reminds me of growin' up Basque, where the main dish often had syphons, antennae, tentacles and ink sacks. All at once.
Since squid became 'calamari', Sea Snails became 'conch', and Patagonian Toothfish was changed into 'chilean sea bass', will you beautify the name of say, razor clams?
Posted 01/14/2008 at 10:50:07 AMI think the trend is not whether or not I can show you how beautiful wild Columbia River Sturgeon is as the next big fish, it's now a race to be the freshest.
To better answer your question on avilability, I am finding Whole Foods to do the best job with fish locally as a consumer. A little more expensive but they have more resources to provide fresh wholesome options.
Posted 01/14/2008 at 11:00:59 AMCan you or your wife recommend a wine to go with Tuna?
Posted 01/14/2008 at 11:05:17 AMI think your togarashi seared tuna might be the tastiest dish I have ever eaten. I have tried several other tuna dishes around town, and they don't seem to be working with the same fish. When did you start making this dish?
Posted 01/14/2008 at 12:09:07 PMThis is a dish I created in seattle years ago. Whenever I run it as a feture it always finds its way onto the menu.
It have evolved but the Japanese underlings have always stayed intact. We obviously have major influences in Seattle from our divrse population make up.
Posted 01/14/2008 at 12:28:21 PMAny round Chardonnay such as our Arcadian Chardonnay here at 360. My personal favorite is a Viognier pairing such as our Eberle Estate Viognier glass pour we offer.
Posted 01/14/2008 at 01:07:34 PMFor that matter, can you or your lovely wife recommend a wine to go with a Red Robin burger? Today is opening day. I figure the Crows will be standing in line at the door.
Posted 01/14/2008 at 01:22:42 PMI don't know if John will agree, but I like Valpolicella with a burger.
And yes, Carrington, I'm waiting with bated breath for John to get home so that we can speed down I-40 to get to Red Robin.
Posted 01/14/2008 at 01:35:42 PMIf you see a white wagon--with Seattle plates and pea vine trailing from the bumper--headed west on 40, get out of the way!
Posted 01/14/2008 at 01:40:42 PMJohn-How would pea vines taste on a burger??
Carrington- What's up with your infatuation with pea vines?
Posted 01/14/2008 at 01:45:12 PMI never had a pea vine before I met JDC. Or do we call them something else here in the South, like "weeds," maybe?
Posted 01/14/2008 at 01:47:04 PMRed Robin...what can I say. Originally a Seattle company of four eateries, they later franchised the brand (I'm not a fan of most franchises), Red Robin hits on all pistons. A vast array of gourmet burgers and appetizers, family freindly and great freshly squeezed fruits for their full bar for anyone interested. Their beers are run through a frozen kegging system.
Posted 01/14/2008 at 01:52:50 PMThe beautiful thing about peas is in their sweetness and usability. In order to build for a higher yield, we snip the shoots and tender vines, whisch is good for me. always in season peas go so well with any preperation. In my top five all time favorite vegetables. Kids love them.
Posted 01/14/2008 at 01:58:44 PMDoes the Columbia River sturgeon beat the Copper River salmon?
Completely off-topic: I'm so glad we don't live anywhere near geoduck—excuse me, "gooeyduck." The time I had it, it was like chewing a briny tire. Is there a trick to cooking/eating it?
Posted 01/14/2008 at 02:04:47 PMAdriatic Spiced Lamb Burger with pea shoots, Ricotta Salata, Tatziki, preserved tomato and toasted brioche.
Posted 01/14/2008 at 02:05:09 PMI was wondering if there is any seafood you will not eat around here, just because there is no way to get it fresh enough.
Posted 01/14/2008 at 02:06:12 PMHow on earth did you get a child to try pea vine? I'm desperate to get my kids to eat more vegetables, and beyond broccoli and edamame they're almost impossible to convince.
Posted 01/14/2008 at 02:09:27 PMThe art is flash searing or slowly braising. geoduck. anything in between is like chewing rubber. Please give it another try.
Posted 01/14/2008 at 02:09:27 PMWarm water fish do not travel well. Mahi Mahi included.
Posted 01/14/2008 at 02:12:53 PMI think it's a baby geoduck that slithers out of the guy's ear in "Star Trek II: Wrath of Khan"
Posted 01/14/2008 at 02:13:57 PMYou said it's now a rare to be freshest--are your customers actually asking now about the freshness of their ingredients? I never thought anybody in Nashville cared. I hope they're not asking now just because it's looks like you know what you're doing, like kicking the tires on a car or asking the year of the wine.
Posted 01/14/2008 at 02:16:29 PM"Race," not "rare." I hate not being able to preview anymore.
Posted 01/14/2008 at 02:17:26 PMI think it's a baby geoduck that slithers out of the guy's ear in "Star Trek II: Wrath of Khan"
I think it's the same one I ate.
Posted 01/14/2008 at 02:18:18 PMI think the Gauntlet has been thrown down...time for Chef Crow to put Geoduck on the menu and give Nashville an education on delectability.
Posted 01/14/2008 at 02:18:54 PMtime for Chef Crow to put Geoduck on the menu and give Nashville an education on delectability
From my experience, it's the geoduck that needs the lessons.
Posted 01/14/2008 at 02:20:41 PMOne of the oldest prehistoric fish, sturgeon is glorious. January and February are the only wild runs on sturgeon in the Columbia River basin. Copper River runs Late April-May in Alaska. the most prestigeous catch there is. 24%-28% body fat, 1,500 miles of river, these guys race back up river through life threatening obsticles in order to pro-create.
Apples and oranges.
Posted 01/14/2008 at 02:22:08 PMI tell kids the vines are from jack's bean stock.
Posted 01/14/2008 at 02:25:08 PMthese guys race back up river through life threatening obsticles in order to pro-create.
Yeah, but you also could say that for any guy at the Villager on a Saturday night.
Posted 01/14/2008 at 02:25:20 PMI tell kids the vines are from jack's bean stock.
You, sir, are a genius.
Posted 01/14/2008 at 02:26:23 PMSarah: Is riesling a good fish wine? I'm thinking about a Valentine's Day meal, and I wondered if riesling would be too weightless.
Posted 01/14/2008 at 02:30:15 PMMy husband tells the kids to eat broccoli as if they are dinosaurs biting the heads off trees. Makes for peaceful meal.
Posted 01/14/2008 at 02:33:10 PMIf the composition of your fish contains spicy ingredients, I would say absolutely yes.
If not, I would go with a wine with a bit more body, like a Viognier or Torrentes.
Posted 01/14/2008 at 02:37:46 PMtacobell canon; I have witnessed in my experience with Nashville that we are looking for more venues to witness fresh, local, organic etc. We are tired of the chain menu options and want to embrace the local guy. It's catching on. Now we need to do two things; as chefs we need to band together joining forces in supporting each others purchases to gain a buying power in our seafood and locally grown foods.
Posted 01/14/2008 at 03:01:38 PMWhat are the chances of that happening?
Posted 01/14/2008 at 03:05:08 PMI visited 360 for the first time since it was The Grape, and I was blown away. The rolled beef carpaccio was really unique. I'm intrigued by the idea of sturgeon, what would be some possible dishes with that fish? And I'm also a big fan of the pea vines, they're wild.
Posted 01/14/2008 at 03:24:01 PMIf Mrs. Pink and I are ever able to eat someplace where you don't color the place settings, we will definitely check out 360. The Indonesian satay chicken and miso-honey tuna sound awesome.
Posted 01/14/2008 at 04:26:25 PMGave 360 a try this evening - a VU faculty recruiting dinner. Mostly very nice work all around (crabcakes, bruchetta, duck, tuna), although we did have to send the partially frozen apple tart dessert back to the wasteland from whence it came. Service attentive and earnest but a bit amateurish. But then again, it was a busy dining room on a cold January Monday night. Nice variety in by-the-glass wine options, but alas, yet another Nashville fine dining establishment without an espresso machine, although there is some solace in the french press coffee. And Harry J. (father of co-proprietor Nick) working the room.
Posted 01/14/2008 at 09:41:29 PMMr. Crow-
I'm a fellow transplanted Seattleite to TN. When I go home I find I'm filling my luggage with all kinds of local artisanal 'ingredients' (salumi sausage, mama lil's peppers, rogue creamery, beecher's, hell, even tillamook extra sharp cheddar!).
What similar things have you discovered here in middle tennessee?
(oh, and if a Red Mill opened out here... then you'd see me racing down 40 for a burger)
Posted 01/15/2008 at 11:55:52 AMSalumi—that's a line always worth standing in. There is a restaurant doing charcuterie that opened here in Nashville recently, but the name escapes me. Fox?
(Also: What, no Tim's Cascade chips?)
Posted 01/15/2008 at 12:03:36 PMI like Tim's (especially the jalapeno and wasabi flavors), but they're a real pain in the butt to bring back without the bag breaking and/or the chips crushing. We're south enough to get Zapp's, and while they aren't as thick or crispy, they do nice in a pinch.
Posted 01/15/2008 at 12:54:18 PMAdam, my wife and I said the same. There is nothing like Red Mill-Fremont.
I am still looking for those local artisan made foods here and we ship Uwajimaya once a month.
Posted 01/15/2008 at 01:35:11 PMSadly, Tim's Cascade Chips sold out to Lay's five-seven years ago.
Adam, bring me back some Manny's Ale and some African Amber.
Posted 01/15/2008 at 01:37:35 PMAh, yes, house cured salami in Nashville: at City House.
I had forgotten about African Amber. I also miss Mirror Pond and Blue Heron, though they're both Oregonian. And sweet, sweet Red Mill, how I miss thee...
Posted 01/15/2008 at 02:13:36 PMOmbi also does a lovely charcuterie, with house-made sausage, pate, rillettes, and bresaola. Course, I am slightly biased by my deep and abiding love for Laura, Rob, and Kim.
Posted 01/15/2008 at 03:37:44 PMAte at 360 over the weekend. WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Posted 01/15/2008 at 03:51:09 PMWe loved it and will be back. Too bad the drive is so far for us.
Ate at 360 last Wednesday night and had a lovely experience. We tried a couple of wine flights, mussels, salmon and duck. Very nicely done. I look forward to many more eats and drinks!
Posted 01/15/2008 at 05:13:16 PMAnybody remember Seattle's late, lamented Peerless Pies? I still have a pie tin from there I treasure. I also have fond memories of the scratch margarita at Palomino and ricotta-dotted slices at Pagliacci Pizza...but that's a good 15 years ago.
Posted 01/15/2008 at 05:21:47 PMPag's would be the best pizza place in Nashville. No offense to House of Pizza.
Palomino had fallen off in the early 00's but I went a year ago and had a piece of copper river stuffed with butternut squash risotto. Best thing I ate the whole week I was back.
JDC: I hate that terrorism has made importing back beer impossible. I used to nearly throw my back out every winter bringing back a carry-on with a few six packs of local micros. It means that going home now turns into beerfest every time, but there are worse things.
I'll never understand why Mac & Jacks doesn't bottle and distribute. It's so beloved in the northwest.
Posted 01/16/2008 at 10:09:40 AMMr. Pink, Perless Pie is still alive and well.
Plalomino still does a good job. Seattle based with 3-4 more around the country. Very Corporately tight operation.
Adam, beer is very tightly accesed by purveyors, no love for the PNW. So sad about us.
Posted 01/16/2008 at 08:17:34 PMPeerless Pies is still around? Glad to hear it. My sister-in-law who used to live in Seattle told me it had disappeared.
Posted 01/17/2008 at 09:12:39 AMJDC, where did you hear that Tim's Cascade sold out to Frito Lay? Not true! Tim's is owned by Birdseye but is ran as a separate company, still frying kettle style chips in Algona, Washington. They are available throughout the west coast!
Posted 04/27/2008 at 12:07:35 PMHi Jon and Sarah,
Do you enhance your food combinations or restaurant style using Feng Shui principles?
They seem very balanced and engaging.
Posted 08/05/2008 at 01:15:34 AMHi Jon and Sarah,
Do you enhance your food combinations or restaurant style using Feng Shui principles?
They seem very balanced and engaging.
Posted 08/05/2008 at 01:15:53 AM